Building My First Custom Keyboard A $75 Budget Journey
Embarking on the journey of building your first custom keyboard can be an incredibly rewarding experience. For me, it was a deep dive into the world of mechanical keyboards, customizable components, and the quest for the perfect typing feel. This article chronicles my adventure of building a custom keyboard for around $75, highlighting the challenges, triumphs, and the sheer joy of creating something unique and personal.
The Allure of Custom Keyboards
Before diving into the specifics of my build, let’s talk about why anyone would choose to build a custom keyboard. Custom keyboards offer a level of personalization that pre-built keyboards simply can't match. You have the freedom to select every component, from the case and keycaps to the switches and stabilizers. This allows you to tailor the keyboard's feel, sound, and aesthetics to your exact preferences. For me, the appeal was a combination of factors:
- Typing Experience: I wanted a keyboard that felt amazing to type on. I was tired of mushy, unresponsive keys and longed for the tactile feedback and satisfying sound of mechanical switches.
- Aesthetics: I wanted a keyboard that looked as good as it felt. I had a specific color scheme and layout in mind and wanted to bring that vision to life.
- Customization: The ability to swap out keycaps, switches, and other components appealed to my desire to tinker and experiment. I knew I wanted a keyboard that I could constantly tweak and improve over time.
- Cost-Effectiveness: While some custom keyboards can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars, I wanted to see if I could build a high-quality keyboard on a budget. The challenge of finding affordable components and maximizing value was part of the fun.
Planning the Build: Setting a Budget and Defining Goals
The first step in any custom keyboard project is planning. Before you start browsing parts and adding things to your cart, it's essential to set a budget and define your goals. For me, the budget was $75, and the goal was to build a fully functional, aesthetically pleasing, and satisfying-to-type-on mechanical keyboard. This meant making some compromises and prioritizing components carefully.
Here are the key questions I asked myself during the planning phase:
- Layout: What layout do I prefer? (60%, 65%, 75%, TKL, Full-size) I ultimately decided on a 65% layout, which offers a good balance between compactness and functionality. It includes the arrow keys, which are essential for my workflow, while still being smaller than a TKL (tenkeyless) keyboard.
- Switches: What type of switches do I want? (Linear, tactile, clicky) This was a crucial decision, as the switches have a significant impact on the typing feel and sound. I knew I wanted tactile switches for the tactile bump feedback, but I had to research different brands and models to find the right balance of feel and price. I opted for Gateron Brown switches, which are known for their smooth tactile feel and reasonable price.
- Keycaps: What keycap profile and material do I prefer? Keycaps come in various profiles (Cherry, OEM, DSA, etc.) and materials (ABS, PBT). PBT keycaps are generally considered more durable and resistant to shine than ABS keycaps. I decided to look for a PBT keycap set in a color scheme that I liked.
- Case: What type of case do I want? (Plastic, aluminum, etc.) The case is another critical component that affects the keyboard's aesthetics and feel. Aluminum cases are generally more premium and offer a more solid feel, but they're also more expensive. Given my budget, I knew I would likely need to opt for a plastic case.
- Plate: What material should the plate be? (Aluminum, brass, polycarbonate) The plate sits between the switches and the PCB (printed circuit board) and provides stability and support for the switches. Different materials can affect the sound and feel of the keyboard. Aluminum plates are common and offer a good balance of stiffness and sound dampening. I decided to look for a kit with an aluminum plate to enhance the typing experience.
Once I had a clear idea of my goals and preferences, it was time to start sourcing parts.
Sourcing the Parts: Finding the Best Deals
With a $75 budget, finding the right parts required a bit of detective work. I scoured online marketplaces, group buys, and forums, looking for deals and discounts. Here's a breakdown of the components I chose and how I sourced them:
- Barebones Kit: I decided to start with a barebones kit, which includes the case, PCB, and plate. This is often the most cost-effective way to get the core components of a custom keyboard. I found a 65% barebones kit on a popular e-commerce platform for around $40. The kit included a plastic case, an aluminum plate, and a hot-swappable PCB, which meant I could easily swap out the switches without soldering. The hot-swappable feature was crucial for my goal of constant tweaking and experimentation.
- Switches: As mentioned earlier, I opted for Gateron Brown switches. I found a set of 70 switches (enough for a 65% keyboard) for around $15 on a reputable online retailer. Gateron Brown switches are often recommended as a budget-friendly alternative to Cherry MX Brown switches, offering a similar tactile feel at a lower price point.
- Keycaps: Finding a decent set of PBT keycaps within my budget was a challenge. Many high-quality keycap sets can cost upwards of $50 or even $100. After some searching, I found a set of PBT keycaps on sale for around $20. They were a simple color scheme but had the durability and feel I was looking for.
- Stabilizers: Stabilizers are essential for preventing larger keys (like the spacebar, Shift keys, and Enter key) from wobbling. The barebones kit came with stabilizers, but they weren't the best quality. I decided to upgrade to a set of Durock V2 stabilizers, which are known for their smooth feel and minimal rattle. I found a set for around $10.
- Cable: While not essential, a custom USB cable can add a nice touch to the overall aesthetics of the keyboard. I decided to use a spare USB-C cable I had lying around, which helped me save a few dollars.
Total Cost:
- Barebones Kit: $40
- Switches: $15
- Keycaps: $20
- Stabilizers: $10
- Cable: $0 (reused)
- Total: $85
As you can see, I went slightly over my initial budget of $75, but I felt the upgrade to the Durock V2 stabilizers was worth the extra cost. It's common to encounter slight budget overruns in custom keyboard projects, so it's a good idea to have a little wiggle room.
Assembling the Keyboard: A Step-by-Step Guide
Once all the parts arrived, it was time for the fun part: assembly! Building a custom keyboard is a relatively straightforward process, but it requires patience and attention to detail. Here's a step-by-step guide to how I assembled my keyboard:
- Stabilizer Modding: The first step was to modify the stabilizers. Stock stabilizers often have a rattle or wobble, which can be annoying. Modding stabilizers involves clipping the stems, lubing the housings and stems, and applying a small amount of dielectric grease to the wires. This significantly improves the feel and sound of the stabilizers. There are numerous tutorials available online that walk through the stabilizer modding process.
- Installing Stabilizers: After modding the stabilizers, I installed them into the PCB. This involves inserting the stabilizers into the designated holes on the PCB and securing them in place.
- Installing Switches: Next, I installed the switches into the PCB. Thanks to the hot-swappable PCB, this was a simple matter of pressing the switches into the sockets. It's essential to ensure that the switch pins are straight and that the switches are fully seated in the sockets.
- Mounting the PCB: Once the switches were installed, I mounted the PCB onto the case. This usually involves screwing the PCB into standoffs in the case. The barebones kit came with all the necessary screws and standoffs.
- Installing Keycaps: The final step was to install the keycaps. This is a simple process of pressing the keycaps onto the switch stems. It's important to use a keycap puller to avoid damaging the keycaps or switches.
- Cable Connection: Finally, I connected the USB-C cable to the keyboard and my computer. After a brief moment of anticipation, the keyboard lit up, confirming that everything was working correctly.
The Final Product: A Keyboard That's Uniquely Mine
After a few hours of planning, sourcing, and assembly, my first custom keyboard was complete. The result was a keyboard that was not only functional but also a reflection of my personal preferences. The tactile Gateron Brown switches provided a satisfying typing experience, the PBT keycaps felt durable and smooth, and the overall aesthetics were exactly what I had envisioned. The plastic case didn’t feel as premium as an aluminum one, but it certainly did its job, and the aluminum plate did add a nice touch to the overall typing experience.
Lessons Learned and Future Upgrades
Building my first custom keyboard was a learning experience. I made a few mistakes along the way, but I also learned a lot about the world of mechanical keyboards and customization. Here are a few key takeaways:
- Planning is Essential: Spending time planning the build and defining your goals is crucial. This will help you stay within your budget and make informed decisions about components.
- Research is Key: There are countless options when it comes to custom keyboard components. Doing your research and reading reviews can help you find the best products for your needs and budget.
- Don't Be Afraid to Experiment: One of the best things about custom keyboards is the ability to experiment. Don't be afraid to try different switches, keycaps, and layouts to find what works best for you.
- The Community is Invaluable: The custom keyboard community is incredibly helpful and supportive. There are numerous forums, subreddits, and online groups where you can ask questions, share your builds, and get feedback.
Looking ahead, I have a few upgrades in mind for my keyboard:
- Case Upgrade: An aluminum case would provide a more premium feel and a more solid typing experience. I plan to look for a used or discounted aluminum case in the future.
- Switch Lubrication: While the Gateron Brown switches feel good, lubricating them would make them even smoother and quieter. This is a relatively inexpensive upgrade that can make a big difference.
- Custom Cable: A custom coiled USB cable would add a nice aesthetic touch to the keyboard. I plan to either purchase a custom cable or try making one myself.
Conclusion: The Journey is the Reward
Building my first custom keyboard was a challenging but ultimately rewarding experience. It allowed me to create a keyboard that perfectly matched my preferences and provided a significantly improved typing experience. While the process required research, patience, and a bit of elbow grease, the end result was well worth the effort. If you're considering building your own custom keyboard, I highly encourage you to take the plunge. It's a fun, engaging, and endlessly customizable hobby that can bring a new level of enjoyment to your computing experience. The keyboard is more than just an input device; it's a tool, an extension of your personality, and a reflection of your unique style. This $75 custom build was just the beginning of my keyboard journey, and I'm excited to see where it takes me next.